A small sump inside the aquarium [Archive] - Aquarium Forum

These work well in small sumps, in nano tank overflows and in display aquariums.
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The major drawbacks associated with this simple type of overflow are that they are relatively noisy and are more difficult to conceal. For these reasons the idea of putting a "box" around the standpipe emerged. The box produces a few nice side effects. The first is that it allows a "thinner" area of water to be skimmed off the surface of the aquarium into the sump. This is desirable for a number of reasons. Aquariums will accumulate a film of organic material on the surface of the water that will both block gas exchange and reduce light penetration. Both of these things are extremely important in a reef aquarium. Reducing the "thickness" of the water falling over the wall as much as possible increases the rate that this film is removed. Second, the sound level of the water cascading into the overflow box is much lower when the thickness of the water overflowing is smaller. A good analogy is to turn your faucet on very slowly and increase it to fully open. When there is a small stream of water coming out it is relatively quiet, but when it nears full force, the sound volume goes up dramatically. And lastly, the box puts the standpipe in an isolated area that, if necessary, can be repaired or maintained without emptying the entire tank.
ASD Acrylic Aquarium Sumps Small + Quick Shop
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In addition, the biological refugium/sump can be maintained on an opposite light cycle to the main tank to offset the daily fluctuations in pH, photosynthesis, dissolved oxygen/carbon dioxide, and redox levels that otherwise occur in the aquarium. Daily variances in chemical, physical and biological phenomena are a fact of life in aquaria, linked to the light and dark cycles and the diurnal rhythms of captive aquatic systems. As one example, the pH of aquarium water typically peaks after the lights have been on all day at a maximum of perhaps 8.4, only to drop to low of below 8.0 overnight. This is related to photosynthesis and the fact that zooanthellae and green plants consume CO2 and produce O2 when there is adequate light, but reverse that process in the dark, consuming O2 and giving off CO2. Redox levels, available calcium and other water quality parameters are affected in similar ways. Needless to say, these variations are far greater is a small, closed-system aquarium than they are in the ocean, so it's beneficial to minimize such fluctuations by reversing the photoperiod in the main display and the sump/refugium. This is easily accomplished by timing the lighting in the sump so that the bed of macroalgae is illuminated after dark when the lights on the display tank are off, and vice versa. Just use alternating timers on the main tank and the refugium tank so that when one is on, the other is off. Voila! Just like that the roller coaster ride is over: no more daily fluctuations in pH or highs and lows in calcium levels, oxygen minima, or peaks and valleys in redox potential. Eshopps ATO Reservoir Tank Small Aquarium Sump Refugium Auto Top Off, 30%OFF , lovely , well-wreapped.
Photo provided by FlickrToo small (less then 2 mm) in size should be used with a media bag of some sort, otherwise the small particles will be all over your sump or aquarium
Photo provided by FlickrThe basic containers commonly used for sumps are small aquariums, custom-built acrylic sumps, small plastic containers, and large plastic
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There is nothing written in stone that states what the minimum size aquarium a sump filter should be installed on. However, you should ask yourself whether it's worth all the hassle installing a sump filter on an aquarium that can only hold a few fish. One of the main reasons we use sump filters is because they are able to accommodate a lot of media. They also enable you to add some extra water to the system. But remember that the fish will be living in the main tank and this will obviously restrict you to how many fish you can have. So there's little point in packing in loads of filtration if you can only house a small number of fish.If you have a wet/dry sump combo such as a Tidepool biowheel (like me) or something of the like. You can do a number of cool things to it to maximize your filtering capablities. Most wet/drys come with only a 3/4" - 1" elbow for intake. I find that removing this fitting and replacing it with a larger Y split pvc fitting you can get a better flow rate when used in conjuction with a high rate pump, such as a magdrive 12, a gate valve for control, and overflow (be it custom or hang on.) You can divide the main sump area into baffles by siliconing a slice of acrylic or glass (thickness depending on water load) to either end of the sump. This gives you room to place pumps, skimmers, etc on one end of the sump and an area in the middle for live sand, live rock, and others. Add a large powercompact or halide light and voila! instant refugium. (small but effective for smaller tanks.) For larger tanks you can daisy chain multiple sumps. The most effective way that I have found to do this(effective meaning less chance of flooding.) is to set your main wet dry up on a platform as close to the overflow that you can get it. Place a hangon overflow or custom drill one in your smaller sump, the one that we placed on a platform, and lead this overflow into a appropriatley sized aquarium, divided up into baffles as discussed earlier, placed below the smaller sump. Run the return line from the larger sump, place a powercompact or metal halide light and you have a larger refugium if the small sump is not enough.