How to cure fin rot with aquarium salt - Betta Fish Center

[GUIDE] Aquarium salt treatment: what is it actually doing? : bettafish
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Aquarium salt should not be used in conjunction with any other stress-inducing agents (Like medications and/or antibiotics), as stress can quickly kill a fish, especially in an unfavorable environment (i.e. using AQ salt). AQ salt will change the salinity in your aquarium, which isn’t natural for the betta, and such, you’ll need to monitor your fish’s actions in case of severe anxiety or death.
Aquarium salt for betta fish
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Many aquarist swear by AQ salt, others flat out refuse to use it. Both parties have their reasons, and both make perfect sense. The ongoing problem discussed among fish-enthusiasts on this subject pertains to the betta fish’s inability to process the salt, which can lead to organ damage and failure; however, it’s still possible to use AQ salt to kill external parasites (such as Ick), with credible and favorable results. Aquarium Salt or Epsom Salt? - Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care
Photo provided by FlickrIs Aquarium Salt Alright For Betta Fish
Photo provided by FlickrDangers of Over Salting a Freshwater Aquarium - Betta Fish Care
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To treat a betta with fin rot using aquarium salt, transfer the fish, a heater and some hiding places like real/fake plants to a separate or tub with treated tap water of the same temperature as the water in the aquarium (be sure to give the fish some time to acclimate to the 100% tap water)! Set the heater to a temperature of around 77-78 F – any higher will make the rot progress more quickly, and any lower and it might be harmful to the fish.Most aquarium safe rocks are safe for bettas. However, some rocks will raise the pH and hardness of the water. Stay away from Texas holey rock, sandstone, rainbow rock, and limestone. Safe rocks include lava rock (though it may be rough and damage betta fins), slate, agate, granite, and basalt. Most crystals like amethyst and quartz are safe. If in doubt, ask at a knowledgeable fish store (not chain pet store, as they are rarely educated on such topics). Seashells and coral can also adversly affect the pH of the water and should be left out of a betta's tank.I got my male betta – Will on November 5th, so he’s still young. He is in a 2 1/2 gallon tank, heated to 76 degrees. I do weekly of 25% and the pH is at 7.0. My betta has started having . I went to a fish store, which said the aquarium salt would help him. I’ve been using the aquarium salt for about month, approximately when the fish rot started.Constipation is a common condition suffered by many types of fish, including bettas. Symptoms include belly bloat and loss of appetite. Constipation is usually caused by overfeeding or feeding a low-fiber diet. Stop feeding a fish with this condition for 24 to 48 hours. If you don't see improvement, offer the fish tiny pieces of the inside of one fresh or frozen pea -- canned peas are too salty. If the fish shows no improvement, consider giving him an Epsom salt bath, which acts as a muscle relaxant. To give your fish an Epsom salt bath, pour half of the tank's water into a clean container. Add 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt for every 1 gallon of water. Have the fish swim in the solution for 15 to 30 minutes. Remove the fish promptly and return him to his aquarium if he appears stressed or relieves himself.•Treatment: You can treat Ick either conservatively or with medication. Ick is a parasite. Because ick is contagious, it is preferable to treat the whole tank when one fish is found to have it. Ick is temperature sensitive: Leave your betta in the community tank and raise temperature to 85 F. Then you can choose to treat with salt or medication. Conservative: Add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration. Perform daily 100% water changes to remove fallen parasites before they can reproduce. Replace the water with the right amount of salt. Do not continue this treatment for more than 14 days. If it fails or you do not want to use salt, treat with Jungle’s Parasite Clear, API Super Ick Cure, or Kordon Rid Ich Plus. If yourI have had my betta for a few months now. Freddie lives in a two gallon fish bowl. I have two gallon jugs that I fill with water, a couple of teaspoons of aquarium salt and seven drops of TetraSafe in each jug and leave the lid off. I fill these jugs up as soon as I use them for water change so they have the added advantage of leaching out chemicals, chlorine, floride, etc. as well as possible and always having water that is the same temperature as what Freddie is swimming in. I have a number of small aquarium things like different sized marbles, small mirrored marbles, medium sized rocks, a small cave and some plastic plants. I vary how I decorate his bowl with each change using things interchangeably. Once I just stuck a blue drinking glass in the bowl and he had a blast swimming in and out of that once he found the mouth of it. Freddie seems happy. He swims around freely often and often explores swimming through the large marbles I have. He enjoys taking his nose and shooting the smaller marbles around making the glass clink at night. I feed him TetraBetta, but it is too big for his mouth so I put some in a little 4 x 4 baggie and hit it with a hammer once keeping it in a pellet but a smaller one that will actually fit in his mouth. I have kept aquariums for elementary schools for many, many years, big ones, small ones, whatever the teachers wanted me to take care of in their classrooms as well as one very large one in the school's lobby. But I do not now. It's a great way to get problem children to behave. When they behaved, they could help me with the aquariums and the children clamored for it. I also kept a good sized goldfish pond in the school's courtyard. I usually kept cichlids and selected really colorful ones in the lobby and big goldfish in the courtyard as they are easier to keep and colorful. My Freddie's bowl gets a slime on the top of it within 4 or 5 days and it is usually objectionable to me, and it also appears to bug Freddie too as his activity slows down and he hovers near the top when the slime is more visible. The clearish, white slime is on the surface of the water. By the time the bowl is a 3 to 4 days old the slime is gross. By 6 to 7 days it is downright disgusting and Freddie is very much less active, so I change out his water around every five days. I have it down to a science and can do it in 15 minutes now. Can you tell me what is causing this slime to develop on Freddie's bowl. I do not use a filter, fine substrate or a heater in Freddie's bowl as I live in the South. What can I do to keep the slime from developing so fast? Or at all? (Sorry so long. I am a writer and find it impossible to stifle myself. :D )